
In a recent articled entitled "The Secret's Out" by Elaine T. Cicora, the illegitimacy of The Cleveland Scene Magazine Restaurant Review is captured. Cicora attempts to review a favorite restaurant of mine that my family and dear friends have frequented for a myriad of years, Brennan's Colony of Cleveland Heights. Because I know this place so well her piece was truly painful to read because she doesn't have the slightest idea about the menu, ambiance or egular patrons that occupy the establishment.
Elaine takes the reader through a tiring exploration of the menus exotic delicious dishes with examples of the ahi tuna salad and polenta. She writes, "During our visits, for instance, the holy trinity of asparagus, artichoke hearts, and spinach was almost ubiquitous." Within the first paragraph of her I lost interest but was determined to finish being very curious at the overall inaccuracy of her creation. I wrote a letter to the editor stating that her column was way off. She concludes her article by proclaiming the only thing missing from the Colony is a good dessert menu. I was so dumbfounded by this suggestion that I almost laughed out loud while reading at work.
I enlightened her that this place has never been about dessert nor will it ever be. I explained that the Colony has grown in popularity over the years from the local east side families, professionals, college and high school students spreading the word about their delicious, unofficial award winning, deep fried buffalo wings (hot, blended, mild). At Brennan's the masses gather to watch their favorite team and catch up over a few frostys, cocktails and wings while enjoying the simpler things in life. It's not a place that witnesses substantial chatter about the orchestra, civic issues or the latest exhibits added to William Busta's art gallery. At large the topics covered in her article, namely a lot of frou frou dishes certainly aren't the foundations of the Colony nor represent that true tradition of it. Her perceptions of the restaurant are clearly mistaken. Over time the chefs versatility certainly has increased with the addition of more alternative dishes to the menu. These same plates solely cater to the parents and grandparents tastes (and errr cholesterol levels) who foot the bill on their kid's dinner over Thanksgiving or Christmas break, having to watch their loved ones rip away at 15-20 blended wings with fries downed by a medley of 3-4 Bud Lights and sometimes more depending on the duration of the meal, stories told, grandmother wanting another glass, etc.
Elaine's article is an aberration to the community and Colony loyalists. She is trying to compare the Colony with hip restaurants in the Tremont or Little Italy area. It's menu isn't meant to compete with a Michelangelo or Paralax and that's what she's intending for it by "letting out the secret." I miss this place dearly and can't wait to be back.



